Amsterdam in two acts
Amsterdam has a split personality.
Tree-lined canals, dozens of parks, great art, cafés, museums and bicycling – weekend breaks in Amsterdam make for a lush, picturesque experience. But at night there is the city's other side – the red light district, marijuana-serving coffee shops and clubs of the Leidseplein fuelling its notorious hedonistic appeal.
From Centraal Station, five minutes along the Damrak and you’re in the heart of Amsterdam: Dam Square. It’s Trafalgar Square, but it’s not. There are more mime artists, fewer pigeons. Passers-by stop passing, sit down and watch performers juggling, as the sun pours in gloriously aslant the Royal Palace.
A natural yearning on weekend breaks in Amsterdam is to hire a bike and trace the city’s canals. The Golden Age architecture dazzles in the refracted light, and seagulls swoop through the mist. You gaze into living room scenes as you rattle by; later you visit the Van Gogh Museum and gaze at his sunflowers.
As evening settles, the all-out entertainment of the Leidseplein calls. Cafés buzz, waiters swirl and lasers beam into the night sky as the party atmosphere thickens in the streets. By 11pm, the red light district is swarming. Tourists giggle uncertainly as women in the window parlours tap persistently on the glass at prospective customers.
People-watching from the Café Americain, you wonder whether this is the same demure city you knew earlier in the day. The answer’s yes – and no.
Feel
the sand between your toes at Blijburg aan Zee, a beach on the artificial IJburg islands. Amsterdam has thrown itself into the urban beach concept (there are now four seasonal "beaches") but Blijburg was the first, and stays open for winter too. Play volleyball, picnic, dance by firelight.
Hang out
in a Brown Café. These traditional local pubs are characterised by ceilings and walls stained brown from nicotine and age, and relaxed punters always up for a chat if you are. Order a genever (Dutch gin) and try a kroket, a delicious meat and potato croquette served with mustard.
Explore
the Vondelpark and find the Picasso sculpture at its centre. Amsterdam’s largest park is roamed by joggers, rollerbladers and wild parakeets set free by mistake in the 70s. Take a break from the buzz over a coffee at the Hollandsche Manege, one of Europe’s last city riding schools.
Georgie, producer, LondonWe pedalled our canal bike down the quiet waterways. Then we came to an incredible floating market of flowers: the bustling Bloemenmarkt. We got off to look at the wonderfully coloured blooms and bulbs – it was beautiful
Quick search
Weekend breaks in Amsterdam
Hotels in Amsterdam
Sightseeing and tours
Amsterdam life
Snack (kroket)
€2-8
Bicycle hire
€7-10 a day
Double room (water side) in floating hotel
€90-95
Tourist visas to the Netherlands
No - Nationals of UK, EU, Australia, New Zealand, USA, Canada, Japan
Yes - Nationals of India, South Africa
Guide only – always check with embassies before travel
Travel to Amsterdam
Direct flights
| from | duration |
|---|---|
| London | 1h10 |
| Manchester | 1h20 |
| Edinburgh | 1h35 |
Airports
Schiphol (AMS)
15km to Amsterdam
All figures approximate
Average daily highs °C