Sauntering along the Váci Utca promenade, crammed with shops, the air hums with the hustle and bustle of a city on the move. Near the street's top end, the sight of Castle Hill tugs your legs, drone-like, across the Danube via the majestic chunkiness of Castle Bridge.
One way to scale Castle Hill is the Sikló, a nineteenth-century funicular. Another is to trek up its steep sides. The grandeur of Buda Castle and spectacular views across the river to the white-limestone Hungarian Parliament are reward many times over for any amount of panting.
Having tramped full circle around Castle Hill in delight, you return to the Fisherman's Bastion. Its intriguing composition - ramparts, cloisters and stairwells winding up to seven conical turrets - is illuminated in the afternoon glare.
You dive into the House of Hungarian Wines around the corner. In the cellar, plied with breadsticks, you take a grape-soaked tour across a map of Hungary, tasting wine from every region. Fuzzy, you leave with two bottles of their finest dessert wine.
Back across the Danube, a long, sobering walk along elegant Andrássy boulevard leads to the magnificent Széchenyi baths in City Park. Lingering for hours among the pools and steam baths, spying on the chess players, you watch the glow of sunset falling over the city.
Aching feet cured - until morning, at least.
in the main pool of the Gellért hotel. Take in the yellow glass roof, marble columns and colourful mosaics as you paddle about. Afterwards, on weekend breaks in Budapest, have Sunday brunch on the shaded first-floor terrace and enjoy the view of the Danube below.
through the musty mazes in the Labyrinth of Budavár. Music echoes down the web of tunnels and chambers, said to have been created by Buda's hot springs half a million years ago. Test your mettle in the "Bravery" section which requires navigation in total darkness.
in the Városliget (City Park), where the fairy-tale towers of Vajdahunyad Castle create a stunning backdrop to the artificial lake. In summer the lake becomes a boater's paradise, while in winter it's transformed into a glittering outdoor ice-rink, allegedly the largest in Europe.
Lucy, editor, LondonMy overwhelming memory of Budapest is its quaintness: from the Lilliputian metro, with its tiny stations and recorded jingles, to the eccentric charm of the bars and cellars dotted throughout the city
Városliget (City Park) ice-rink
700 Ft (£1.75)
Labyrinth of Budavár
1200 Ft (£3)
Wild boar with lavender dish
4000 Ft (£10)
No - Nationals of UK, EU, Australia, New Zealand, USA, Canada, Japan
Yes - Nationals of India, South Africa
Guide only - always check with embassies before travel
| from | duration |
|---|---|
| London | 2h30 |
| Manchester | 4h20* |
| Edinburgh | 5h30* |
*average, including 1 stop
Ferihegy (BUD)
24km from Budapest
All figures approximate
Average daily highs °C