Lisbon for time travellers
The old-world charm of Lisbon, where trades are handed down the generations and shopfronts rarely change from one century to the next, is reminiscent of Rome, Istanbul, parts of Spain...
Yet weekends breaks in Lisbon are an entirely different experience. Where else would you find so much graffiti? More street artistry than urban degeneration, the sprawling murals make flamboyant modern backdrops as you drift through the old city.
Chessboard-tiled streets lead you to the Rossío, Lisbon's main square since the Middle Ages. A statue of King Dom Pedro IV, who gave the square its official name, is perched high above the panoply of flower sellers and shoeshines. Lingering in a café, you find yourself imagining the crowds at the public executions once held here.
Just north of the Rossío, Casa do Alentejo seems to have all of Lisbon packed inside it. There's the ornate Moorish courtyard, Art Nouveau nooks, an exquisitely tiled restaurant, and elders originally from Alentejo province playing cards, deep in concentration.
Wandering around the steep, narrow streets of the Bairro Alto (Upper Town) you pass mournful ruins, roofless and exposed. A notice tells you it was a monastery damaged by the 1755 earthquake.
A bright yellow awning grabs your attention: the Cervejaria Trindade (beer hall) is bustling. You order prawns that melt on your tongue. Lastly, you try A Baiuca, a restaurant staging nights of "fado vadio" - the amateur version of Portugal's melancholic music genre dating back to the 1820s. In Lisbon, the past is always present.
Savour
the spectacular views of the Rio Tejo (Tagus River) and the city from the battlements of Castelo de São Jorge, atop Lisbon's highest hill. Trace the footsteps of the Moors a thousand years before, as you amble through the castle's leafy courtyards of olive and cork trees.
Taste
the real Lisboa cuisine in an adega (bar-restaurant), particularly the seafood. Bacalhau (dried salted cod) is a very popular local dish and can be eaten espiritual (like a soufflé). To really compete with the Lisbonites, try a speciality such as medalhões de javalhi (wild-boar medallions).
Admire
incredibly intricate, hand-embroidered lace and linen at the original Madeira House shop on Rua Augusta. Traditional tiles and ceramics are also on sale, but perhaps think twice about the cork range - a wallet crafted of cork may be too much for even your most eccentric of relatives.
Angela, designer, LondonWe went into the monastery [Mosteiro dos Jerónimos]. The stained glass windows are beautiful. There is a central courtyard below, and these amazing limestone cloisters that are the brightest yellow - I almost had to shield my eyes. Everyone should go
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Weekend breaks in Lisbon
Hotels in Lisbon
Sightseeing and tours
Lisbon life
48-hour Lisboa Card (all public transport and funiculars)
€23
Entrance to São Jorge castle
from €3
Meal at Cervejaria Trindade
€16-25
Tourist visas to Portugal
No - Nationals of UK, EU, Australia, New Zealand, USA, Canada, Japan
Yes - Nationals of India, South Africa
Guide only - always check with embassies before travel
Travel to Lisbon
Flights to Lisbon
| from | duration |
|---|---|
| London | 2h30 |
| Manchester | 5h10* |
| Edinburgh | 5h40* |
*average, including 1 stop
Airports
Portela Airport (LIS)
7km from Lisbon
All figures approximate
Average daily highs °C