Between earth and sky in Marrakech
Stepping off the plane, you are instantly struck by the sweet scent of the Red City. Is it the air - or does the earth smell different?
It's a mystery that only weekend breaks in Marrakech might answer. Straining to discover the city's secrets, you flag down a "petit taxi" for the Djemaa El Fnaa - Africa's busiest square, the hub of Marrakech.
The Djemaa is as alive and strange as when it formed the backdrop of Hitchcock's The Man Who Knew Too Much half a century ago. A breathtaking sweep of human activity, menagerie and ancient custom combined, it becomes a vast stage as dusk descends. Chleuh dancing-boys, storytellers, magicians, snake charmers and fire-eaters jostle among stalls offering fragrant kebabs, tagines and merguez sausages.
Weekend breaks in Marrakech are like being dunked headfirst into another world, thick with exotic sights and sounds. A mint tea on at a rooftop terrace affords tantalising glimpses of minarets and ruined ancient palaces, mausoleums and mosques, lanky coconut trees and ornate doorways in the city below.
Within the ochre walls of the medina, you explore the winding alleyways among the souks (markets), dodging donkeys and bicycles. Each stall arrests your eye. Ruby-stones, amulets and bracelets dazzle. A trader tips his skullcap at you. You haggle over a wooden mask and walk away with your first purchase.
Ducking into a hammam you decide it's neither the earth nor the sky that scents Marrakech. It's age-old Arabic, Berber and French fragrances mingling in lanterns, silks and slippers in an ancient corner of Africa.
Gaze
at the shady Saadian Tombs, a carved cedar and marble mausoleum to the city's rulers, and contemplate the long lost splendour of the El Badi palace. Once the venue of some of the world's most extravagant parties, the palace now plays host mainly to storks.
Wander
deep into the maze of alleys in the medina in search of the famous fountain chrob wa chouf ("drink and look"). From here you can take a horse-drawn calèche between mopeds to the Djemaa or explore the old riads (palaces) that line the streets of the old city.
Escape
the heat in the tranquil Menara gardens after shopping in the souks. Groves of olive trees shroud the path to the green-tiled pavilion, called the "minzah". Beyond the rectangular pool, the Atlas Mountains form an impenetrable snow-capped bank on the horizon.
Sajdah, designer, LondonMarrakech hotels have their own exotic touch of luxury. At ours, we lounged by the pool on huge white sun-beds, which came with their own curtains. The food was opulent and we experimented, piling on the dishes - we felt like royalty.
Quick search
Weekend breaks in Marrakech
Hotels in Marrakech
Marrakech life
Glass of fresh orange juice 3 Dh (20p)
Babouches (Moroccan slippers)
80 Dh (£5)
Dinner for two with wine at La Makarechi in the Djemaa
500 Dh
(£30)
Tourist visas to Morocco
No - Nationals of UK, EU, Australia, New Zealand, USA, Canada, Japan
Yes - Nationals of India, South Africa
Guide only - always check with embassies before travel
Travel to Marrakech
Flights to Marrakech
| from | duration |
|---|---|
| London | 3h30 |
| Manchester | 7h00* |
| Edinburgh | 7h15* |
*average, including 1 stop
Airports
Marrakech-Menara (RAK)
6km from Marrakech
All figures approximate
Average daily highs °C