In Prague, blinking
On weekend breaks in Prague, you're supposed to get lost.
From the winding streets of Malá Strana (the Little Quarter) to the Mirror Maze on Petrín hill, this magical city calls out to be explored on foot, with a map clutched in one hand, kolác (Czech pastry) in the other, and a happily puzzled expression.
Baroque church bells fight with the tinkling chimes of the Orloj (Astronomical Clock) for your attention. Cubist and Art Nouveau architecture, the vast Prague Castle complex, the old Gestapo HQ, the fairy turrets of Týn Church - every disoriented turn yields another eyeful.
Anyone taking winter weekend breaks in Prague earns the right to frequent stops to thaw out. Coffee at Café Slavia - where for decades the city's dissidents congregated - comes with a large spoonful of atmosphere. Slipping seamlessly from past to present, you may also find yourself at the Alcohol Bar near the Old Town Square, warming up on some of its 400 cocktails.
The city can seem impossibly deserted in the early morning, then full to the brim, bustling with tourists, jazz musicians and street vendors around Charles Bridge in the afternoon. Come evening, faced with multiple warring stag and hen parties in Old Town and Wenceslas squares, the obvious solution is to seek out one of the authentic Czech taverns nearby.
At night, looking down at the city wrapped around the River Vltava from Vysehrad hill gives some perspective. Fairy-tale pretty, darkly dissolute or boisterously beer-splashed - Prague casts its spell in many ways.
Swig
Czech beer in a traditional beer hall in Zizkov, an old working-class area about ten minutes from central Prague by tram. Reputed to have the highest concentration of pubs in any city district of Europe, Zizkov is also home to the New Jewish Cemetery, Franz Kafka's final resting place.
Defy
modern dietary guidelines and pile into traditional Czech cuisine. At U medvídkù restaurant, dumplings and sauerkraut, goulash with white-bread and bacon are a mere 99 CZK (£2.40). Note that Czech 'bezmasa' (meatless) dishes can in reality be anything but...
Absorb
Prague from the vantage point of the Zizkov Television Tower. This striking modern building - out of context with Prague's history-heavy structures - offers an enormous view of the city. The outside of the tower bears an unusual modern art piece which consists of giant babies crawling up its sides.
Sadie, student, CardiffOn a snowy day, we took the funicular to the top of Petrín hill. We were out of breath by the time we climbed the 299 steps of the observation tower, but the incredible view more than made up for all the effort!
Quick search
Weekend breaks in Prague
Hotels in Prague
Sightseeing and tours
Prague life
Bottle of beer
25 CZK (60p)
Day travel card
80 CZK (£2)
Entry to ice rink
100 CZK (£2.40)
Tourist visas to Czech Republic
No - Nationals of UK, EU, Australia, New Zealand, USA, Canada, Japan
Yes - Nationals of South Africa, India
Guide only - always check with embassies before travel
Travel to Prague
Direct flights
| from | duration |
|---|---|
| London | 2h |
| Manchester | 2h10 |
| Edinburgh | 2h25 |
Airports
Prague Ruzyne airport (PRG)
20km to city centre
All figures approximate
Average daily highs °C